When we stopped for water at Yarkand this morning Ian and I saw this old man collecting bottles (there is a very modest “pension” that needs to be supplemented). We smiled at him and he then smiled at us and kept his smile on us. Ian gave me a kangaroo pin which you can see I pinned on his lapel. Was his cheer just about being recognized as a fellow human being? Ian reckoned the bloke had probably not done any wrong in his life and this is his lot. It was a very moving experience. I bet he is still grinning.